Find your happy flower

The Belarusians are believed to have better preserved the tradition of marking the solstice day, widely known as Kupalje
The Belarusians are believed to have better preserved the tradition of marking the solstice day, widely known as Kupalje

On the Kupalje night young people gather around bonfires, chain in for a khorovod (a traditional round dance), leap over the fire and run on the dewy grass. Girls read fortunes by floating the wreaths on the water. This is the hour when many incidental acquaintances grew into something bigger and end up with a ring on one’s finger. At midnight, the most courageous celebrators set out for a journey in the forest looking for a fern flower, under which is the place, where millions lie under the ground. The venture is said to be extremely dangerous, as — the legend has it — witches and sirens get active, while evil forces guard the buried treasure.
The Catholics mark Kupalje during the dark time dividing June 23 and 24, while the Orthodox insist the flower of fortune can be found at night between July 6 and 7. The celebrations spring from the pagan tradition and are a dedication to the summer solstice.
This year I had a chance to join the round dance of Kupalje.
I went to mark the day (I beg to differ — the night) to Lake Chervyatskoye, Ushachi District, Vitebsk Region. This is the land of lakes and the native land of a Krivichi tribe. The place is amazing as is the isle that has been chosen as the venue.
First of all, the geographic centre of Europe is situated next to Lake Sho. Second, one should take a boat to reach the Isle of Velizhje, which was named after God Vyales over one thousand years ago.
— It is well-known that people came to the isle to gather herbs on the Kupalje night, — Olga Yemelyanchik, ethnographer-anthropologist and the front-woman of Guda folk band (she has been on numerous expeditions to the region and knows all local secrets).
— There are certificates confirming that Kupalje celebrations took place here. Old-timers argue a water path once led to the isle. On a clear day “the path” was discernable underwater. Such paths served as arrows to the sacred places of our forebears.
While Olga Yemelyanchik explained to me the whereabouts, the Kupalje bonfire bursting into flames. To erect such a monument is not an easy animal. It takes a dozen of strong hands and several days to line up dead trees around a tall pole with a circle made of branches instead of the usual wheel.
The fire was not borrowed from a match or a lighter. The spark was the achievement of Todar Kashkurevich and his efforts of rubbing flint stone against metal.
At midnight the sky was gleaming with the Kupalje bonfire and full moon. To see full moon on a solstice night is a good omen. Meanwhile, I was dragged into the khorovod and then joined popular dances. Belarusian Skoki is a very simple dance; you do not have to learn even. The songs by Guda and Essa bands that were learned “from the mouth” of authentic singers magnetise air. The whole act looks harmonious and natural: people form a circle. At times like this, you understand that ancient traditions are not reserved to signing songs and dancing — it is a holy act that helps people assimilate with nature.
While we were dancing around the dying “kupala” — Ushachi residents often refer to the Kupalje fire in this way — many went to search for the fern flower.
In the meantime, at the other end of the isle “krupnik” was boiling. What is it? Krupnik is a mixture of herbs, honey and vodka. A bowl of potion was put on fire. When it reached the boiling temperature, it was taken off the fire. The female cooks refused to unveil the secret: “It is woman’s intuition.” Intuition did not let them down and the Kupalje drink turned out to be balmy and heart-warming. If cooled down, the beverage reminds the famous krambambulya, but it is usually drunk hot to reach the desirable effect.
…Dances continued into the small hours, songs ditto. The sky was clear. It was impossible to say, whether it was the middle of day or the end of night. The ritual table was laid to meet the sunrise. The tablecloth that lay right on the grass was covered with dishes full of pancakes and machanka (pork in a special sauce).
Swimming in the lake the shores of which were naturally decorated with pond lilies was the climax of the act. This earthly beauty seemed to me a worthy “compensation” of the undiscovered flower of happiness.

Viktar Korbut

The National Bank of Belarus issued memory coins in honour of the summer solstice:
BLR 20 silver coins (3,000 coins)
and BLR 1 copper-nickel ones (5,000).
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